细旦桑蚕丝及其织物的开发与性能分析-development and performance analysis of fine denier mulberry silk and its fabrics.docxVIP

AbstractStudyonthePropertiesandProductDevelopmentofFine-denierRawSilkStudyonthePropertiesandProductDevelopmentofFine-denierRawSilkAbstractFine-denierrawsilkisanewdevelopmentdirectioninsilkvarieties,itimprovesthequality,raisesthelevelandenrichesthevarietyofsilkfabric.Thispaperdevelops13kindsoffine-denierrawsilkandanalysestheirstructureandproperties.Theresultsshowthatthecrosssectionshapeoffinedeniermulberrysilkisirregulartriangle;fine-denierrawsilkhasthestructureofβ-sheet,α-helixandrandomcoil.Besides,comparedwithordinaryone,sericincontentismorethan21.16%,andincreases0.47%;crystallinityislessthan46.3%,andreducescontentby1.07%.ForLiangguangNO.2,Qiufeng×Baiyu,Baiyu×Qiufeng,GuicanNO.2,Yuanzi×Youzi,Suxiu×ChunFengandmalesilk,thebreakingtenacity,breakingelongationandmoistureregainarerespectivelylargerthanorequalto4.00cN/dtex,29.64%and11.09%,respectivelyincreaseby7.82%,14.71%,10.24%.butthethermalpropertyoffine-denierrawsilkisbasicallythesameastheordinarysilk.ThispaperselectQiufeng×Baiyu,Yuanzi×Youzi,Suxiu×ChunFengandmalesilktodevelopfabric,andanalysistheirwearability.Theresultshowsthatpermeability,moisturepermeabilityandhygroscopicityisrespectivelymorethan683.78mm·s-1,2559.27g.m-2.d-1,6.25cm,increases0.75%、0.44%、8.13%;drapecoefficientforQiufeng×Baiyu,Suxiu×ChunFengandmalesilkarelessthan45.52%,reduces3.99%;creasyrecoveryangle,breakingstrengthbreakelongationaremorethan137°,250.60N,17.16%,inspectivelyincrease3.03%,4.45%,7.32%.UPFindexformalesilkincreases3.17%,butQiufeng×BaiyuandSuxiu×ChunFengaresimilartocommonone.Tofurtherexplorethestylecharacteristicsoffine-denierrawsilk，KES-FBfabricstyleinstrumentwasusedtotestandanalysis.TheresultsshowthatthefabricofYuanzi×Youziisspecial，forotherfine-denierrawsilk，complaisantspend,richnessandscrooparerespectivelymorethan4.62,4.29,6.26,increase10.79%,9.44%、0.64%;smoothdegree,StudyonthePropertiesandProductDevelopmentofFine-denierRawSilkAbstractstiffnessandflatdegreearelessthan4.77,8.08,7.15,andrespectivelyreduceby18.04%,2.53%,0.97%.Keywords:Fine