天然染料东山咖啡应用於蚕丝羊毛纤维其染色性之研究.pdfVIP

「創新紡織．成就未來」 紡織工藝 天然染料東山咖啡應用於蠶絲、羊毛纖維其染色性之研究 * 鄭如伶 , 陳鴻助 台南應用科技大學服飾設計管理系 ，台灣 *聯繫作者：t30038@mail.tut.edu.tw 摘要：我國在紡織化工染整業之環境中，隨處可見易造成環境污染的問題 ，然在全球環保意識的提升， 天然染料再度受到關注值得國人加以深入探討。本文以天然染料東山咖啡為染料，進而萃取出其天然 色素，再對蠶絲與羊毛纖維進行染色，經由各媒染劑處理後，檢測上色程度、耐水洗及耐摩擦堅牢度 之變化情形。研究結果得知：1.東山咖啡萃取染料染著蠶絲與羊毛纖維媒染處理後的色彩變化，在染 蠶絲纖維3%濃度時，加入硫酸亞鐵色差值最大；2.耐水洗堅牢度方面，以使用硫酸亞鐵作為媒染劑其 耐水洗堅牢度皆維持在 3-4 級以上；3.耐摩擦堅牢度方面，不論蠶絲與羊毛纖維隨著染色時間增加至 45 分鐘 ，其耐摩擦堅牢度不受影響皆約在4 級。 關鍵詞：東山咖啡豆、媒染劑、蠶絲纖維、羊毛纖維 Color Characteristics of Silk and Wool Fabrics Dyed with Natural Plant Dyes Dongshan Coffee * Ru-Lin Cheng and Hong-Chu Chen Department of Fashion Design and Management, Tainan University of Technolog, Taiwan * Corresponding author: t30038@mail.tut.edu.tw Abstract : In Taiwan, textile chemicals dyeing and finishing industry environment, synthesis of dyeing process can be seen everywhere, easy to cause environmental pollution problems, in the global under the influence of green environmental protection, enhancement of environmental awareness and the people attach great importance to health of the body, so natural plant dyes rise again concerns, therefore more worthy the people to be in -depth discussion. This study of natural plant dyes Dongshan Coffee to dye, further extract its natural pigment, and then to dye silk cotton and wool fibers , therefore, by the different mordant processed, the changes of color levels were detected 、fastness of wash and rubbed were observed. The experimental results: 1. Dongshan Coffee was ext