基于特殊体型的紧身衣衣身结构研究和应用-服装专业论文.docxVIP

基于数码照片测量技术的女性人体体型研究 基于数码照片测量技术的女性人体体型研究 中文摘要 基于特殊体型的紧身衣衣身结构研究和应用 中文摘要 人体的躯干部分是女式上装外观造型效果的关键，其结构处理技术与参数设计将 直接影响服装与人体体表的吻合程度和整体平衡。由于现代经济生活的高度发展，人 们的社会交往日益增多，如何满足女性特殊体型的人群对服装功能性、舒适性以及美 化性的需求，同样是服装结构设计的研究重点。 为满足女性特殊体型群体对上装外观造型需要，本课题以165／84h人体模型为研 究对象，排除材质对衣身结构的影响，分别对胸高体、凸肚体、驼背体的结构特征进 行定性分析。并将其相关部位分别抬高lcm、2cm、3am，模拟其表面形态在标准人体 模台进行修整，再以立体裁剪方法制作紧身衣衣身样板，通过平面图片叠加的分析方 法，量化分析考察不同胸高状态、不同腹凸状态、不同背凸状态下紧身衣样板中各工 艺点的位移变化，总结特殊体型的体表形态和服装平面结构的变化规律。 结果显示：胸高、腹凸、背凸每增高lcm，胸围增量、胸上下围差量、腰臀差、 腹臀差、肩胛骨省尖点所在的水平围度线的增量、后身胸围与肩胛骨省尖点所在的水 平围度线的差量等有关数据都呈等差数列变化并递增，相关部位的省量和结构相应改 变并增大。针对特殊体型体表形态的量化分析，在修正其紧身衣平面结构基础上，对 特殊体型成衣样板结构修正提出了指导性意见。 关键词：女性；特殊体型；样板结构 作 者：吴敌 指导老师：刘国联 The The Garment Pattern Analysis Based on Special Bodily Form Abstract Human body’S trunk is the key area for the appearance of the female’S upper garment， whose structure will directly influence the fittingness of the garment and the balance of the garment．With the development of the economic as well as the more and more social association，how to match the special bodily form becomes to be an important part of the studying of the garment structure design． In this thesis，a 1 65／84A mannequin was selected as the object．Without thinking about the fabric influence on clothes structure，that the structural features of high breast bodyhighlight belly body and humpback body are analyzed．The corresponding sections were respectively changed l cm each time．And then，stereo curing was made on the changed mannequin．It also applies the analyses methods of flat picture stacking to qualitative analyse and examine the position movement changes of every craft point of the tights’template under differemt breast height，belly highlight and humpback and finally SHINS up the changing pattern of special bodyshape’S body surface morphology and clothes flat structure． The result shows：when breast height，belly highlight and humpback increases respectively by 1 cm，the reletive data，such as chest measurement increments．tlle differential of upper and low