三宅一生设计中的身体意识研究.pdfVIP

摘 要 服装是一种基于身体的设计，与人的身体息息相关，从而与其他设计显示出 独特的审美特征。服装依身体而存在，身体以服装而表现自身。但在服装的设计 史中身体曾一度处于被悬置与缺席的状态，更多的是显示服装的社会功能特性。 由于不同的哲学思潮和文化背景下，当今时代身体的价值被放大，从之前被“忽 视”到 “束缚”，进而 “解放”到 “展示”的过程，身体审美始终停留在服装对 身体修饰的外观形象上，在设计中没有注重身体意识表现及身体体验。本文的研 究对象为三宅一生的设计。其研究目标旨在揭示三宅一生设计中身体意识的表现。 研究内容主要基于对三宅一生设计作品的分析和解读，存在着包括从身体出发的 设计，设计的身体化，以及身体的审美化设计三种观念。通过分析三宅一生在设 计中加入身体元素的表现特征，与服装史及身体史的梳理中，对其服装进行一种 从身体出发的设计观念研究。本文通过对具体作品的设计手法和设计理念分析， 试图揭示其外观形态、结构设计与设计目标中的身体化倾向。针对三宅一生设计 中的身体理想，则从身体审美的角度探讨作品表现出的日式审美意识“侘”与“寂”， “间”与“素”及身体与服装的游戏。研究意义在于发现三宅一生设计作品体现 的身体意识观念，并对设计史具有突出的意义。 关键词：三宅一生；服装设计；身体意识 研究类型：理论研究 Abstract Clothing is a body-based design, which is closely related to the human body, thus showing unique aesthetic characteristics with other designs. Clothing exists according to the body, and the body expresses itself as clothing. However, in the history ofclothing design,thebody wasonce in a suspended and absent state,more of which showed the social function of clothing.Due to different philosophical thoughts and cultural backgrounds, the value of the body in today ’s era has been amplified, from the previous “neglected” to “bound”, and then “liberated” to “displayed”, the body aesthetic always stays on the appearance image of the body decoration of the clothing, and doesnot pay attention to thebody consciousnessperformance andbody experience in the design. The research object of this article is the design of Issey Miyake.Itsresearch goal isto reveal theperformance ofbody consciousness in Issey Miyakes design. The research content is mainly based on the analysis and interpretation of Issey Miyakes design works. There are three concepts including body-based design,embodiment of design,and aesthetic design ofbody.By analyzing theperformance characteristics of Issey Miyakes addingbody elementstothe design, and combing thehistory of clothing and body history, abody-oriented design concept study was