Lecture13 海水的地质作用及海岸线.pdfVIP

Chapter 13 Shorelines and Shoreline Processes 海水的地质作用及海岸线 Outline • Tides, waves, and nearshore currents • Shoreline erosion • Deposition along shorelines • Types of coasts • How are coastal areas managed as sea level rises? • Energy from the Oceans Introduction • A shoreline is the area from low tide to the highest level on land affected by storm waves – Dynamic areas where waves, tides, and marine currents continually modify features – Vary from rocky and steep to broad sandy beaches Introduction • A coast 海滨is a much broader area. It includes : –Shoreline 海岸线 –Nearshore sandbars and islands 近海沙堤和 岛屿 –Sand dunes 沙丘 –Marshes 沼泽 –Sea cliffs 海蚀崖 Tides 潮汐 • Result from the gravitational attraction of both the Moon and Sun • They cause the ocean tides to rise and fall twice daily in most places (flood tide 涨潮, ebb tide 退潮) • Tidal ranges are affected by coast topography and complicated by moon/sun properties Waves 波浪 • Waves are oscillations of the water surface which transmit energy; directly or indirectly responsible for most erosion, transport and deposition. • Wave Terminology – Crest 波峰– highest part of the wave – Trough 波谷– lowest part of the wave – Wavelength 波长– distance from crest to crest – Wave height 波高– vertical from the trough to the crest – Wave base 波底- a depth corresponding to one-half wavelength Waves • Wave Generation – Most geologic modification of shorelines is accomplished by wind-generated waves, especially storm waves. – Waves can also be produced by faulting, volcanic eruptions, and rockfalls. • Wave size in wind- generated waves is controlled by fetch.