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How the UK Fell in Love with Chinese Food
Michelle Warwicker
“You are seeing more regional Chinese food from Sichuan, Hunan and other areas of China,〞 says Ken Hom.
Chinese food has become one of the country’s dominant ethnic cuisines since it was popularised in the 50s and 60s, but the taste for “traditional〞 Chinese restaurants is changing.
Chinese and Indian restaurants and takeaways are among the most popular in the UK, but they were also among the worst-hit in the recession.
Traditional Chinese restaurants have been struggling to compete with set-price pan-Asian buffets and modernised, specialist Chinese restaurants, according to a 2021 report by market researchers Mintel.
In fact Chinese food is no longer just a restaurant or takeaway treat - as more people are cooking it at home.
Sauce and ready meal sales have increased, according to Mintel. Sales of woks have gone up 46% each year at online retailer Amazon.
This is fuelled, according to Amazon store manager David Brittain, by “the desire for quick and healthy mid-week dinners〞.
Acclaimed chef Ken Hom is marking 30 years on UK television with a Chinese cookery masterclass at the Bristol Food Connections festival. He says attitudes towards Chinese food have changed “enormously〞.
“Chinese food at the beginning of the 80s was sweet and sour pork, mainly. Most Brits had a very stereotypical view of Chinese food,〞 he tells BBC Food.
“Now you are seeing more regional Chinese food from Sichuan, Hunan and other areas of China. It is no longer just Cantonese food.〞
After they had a drink in a pub, they were hungry. Then they went to a... Chinese restaurant. “
Cantonese Dim Sum - small plates of food or parcels served in steamer baskets - originated in southern China, and has become a firm favourite in British restaurants.
But in fact there are eight regional cuisines. Hunan cuisine is associated with chilli and garlic flavours and its famous crispy duck; Fujian cuisine is known for its umami (savoury) taste and s
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