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It was as recently as 2004 that Australia overtook France as principal supplier of wine to the UK and, briefly, looked set to push Italy into second place as most important exporter of wine to the US wine market, Australia enjoyed a brief period in the sun when the powerful critic Robert Parker espoused a series of quite different labels cooked up especially for American consumers. The staggering success of Yellow Tail, with its kangaroo label, spawned so many imitation “critter” brands, as they were known, that at the bottom end of the market, Australia came to be seen as ubiquitous and vapid. Wine Australia is doing its best to address this problem by holding tastings with key opinion-formers in key markets. And in June, amid much humbaloo, a squad of hand-picked journalists and sommeliers are invited to Landmark Australia in the Barossa Valley to be spoon-fed Australia’s finest wines by some of its most impressive winemakers. President Reagan’s White House staff is divided into three parts: the upstairs part headed by the pragmatic James Baker; the downstairs part headed by the conservative Judge Clark; and the backstairs part patrolled by their assistants, who tell the press about the differences between upstairs and downstairs. There have always been differences between most Presidents’ advisers ever since Thomas Jefferson was accused of relying on an “invisible, inscrutable” group of associates that engaged in “backstairs influence.” So the current rumors of a struggle for the President’s mind among the Big Four-Baker, Clark, Deaver and Meese-are not new, just more public. They are the result of President Reagan’s remoteness from the day-to-day policy formation, of his habit of delegating authority, not to a single chief of staff, as President Eisenhower did, and of his tendency to avoid getting his principal aides together on a regular basis to listen patiently to their arguments and differences. Hemudu site in Yuyao, Ningbo, has the total area of about 4000