河海大学海岸动力学试卷海岸答案.docxVIP

1 higher-order Stokes wave thcories conidi al wave theor\ solitan^ wave theory 2、 rctlcction. diffraction 3、 Jetties, groins, breakwaters waves 4、 wave setdown, wave setup 5、 frequency spectrunu directional distribution function 6、 Height. their direction of travel a、 1、 The wa\c velocity, the phase velocity or speed (c)? The wa\c velocity, the phase velocity or speed c is the rate that a particular phase of motion mines along through the medium or I he rate chat a wa\e crest moves through ihe water. I( can be calculated by dividing (he wavelength by the wave period. It is the speed of an individual wave? c L T = k. —?、 1、 波速，相速度或速度是一个特定的相在介质中移动的速率或水中波峰移动的速率。 它可以通过波长比周期进行计算。 2、 Deep water — for a water depth larger than half the wavelengths h 1/2 厶 the phase speed of the waves is hardly influenced by depth? I his is the case for most wind waves on the sea and the ocean surface? Intermediate depth — tor water depth 120 L h 1/2 L. Shallow water — for a water depth smaller than the wavelength di\ ided by 20, h I 20 A. 3、 The profiles of ocean waves in deep water are long and low. As the waves enter shallow water, the propagation speed and wavelength decrease, lhe wave steepens, and the wave height increases until the wa\ c train consists of peaked crests separated by flat troughs. This wave shoaling commences at the depth where the waves feel the bottom. This depth is about one-half the deep-water wavelength. 2、 深水一一水深大于波长的一半，即/?-,波的相速度很难被水深影响。深水情况 2 适用于很多由于海」:的风在海面引起的风浪； 有限水深——水深厶 h- 20 2 浅水——h — 20 3、 深水区的波浪外形是波长长且波高小的。当波浪进入浅水区，传播速度和波长减小, 波浪变得陡峭，波高增加直到波列由被平缓的波谷分隔的尖的波峰组成。(上一句冇点拗 Uooo)我觉得后面的没丿IJ,不翻译了。 Obliquely incident water wave climate and nearshore bathymetry arc responsible for the wave-induced longshore currents. When waves break at an angle (o (he beach, (he momentum of the breaking wave generates onshore currents that flow in the direction of pixjpagation of the breaking wa\e and its bore .The pile up of waler along the shore result in the generation of lon