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1. Eastward from Ashkhabad my train lumbered across a region of oases where
rivers dropped out of Iran to die in the Turcoman desert. In one window the Kopet
Dagh mountains lurched darkly out of haze, and repeated themselves in thinning
colours far into the sky. Beyond the other rolled a grey- green savannah, gashed with
poppies. Over this immensity the sky curved like a frescoed ceiling, where flotillas of
white and grey clouds floated on separate winds.
我乘坐的列车由阿什哈巴德驶出,一路向东,在土库曼沙漠中的绿洲地区中
缓慢行驶,源自伊朗的数条河流便在这里汇集。透过一扇车窗,可以看到考匹特
塔克山脉在黑色的迷雾中蜿蜒前行,若隐若现,其颜色随着山势的增高而变得模
糊起来。另一扇车窗中,灰绿色草原绵延不绝,四处是凌乱的罂粟。天空在无垠
的大地上盘旋曲折,仿佛是一个刻有壁画的天花板,密集的白云和灰云在空中随
着阵风飘移。
2. Once or twice under the foothills I glimpsed the mound of a kurgan, broken
open like the lips of a volcano – the burial-place of a tribal chief, perhaps, or the
milestone of some lost nomad advance. Along this narrow littoral, a century ago, the
Tekke Turcomans had grazed their camels and tough Argamak horses, and tilled the
soil around forty-three earthen fortresses. Now the Karakum canal ran down from the
Oxus through villages with old, despairing names such as Dead-End and
Cursed-by-God, and fed collective farms of wheat and cotton.
在山麓小丘之下,我瞥见了一两个坟头,坟头已经裂开,样子与火山口相仿
——也许,它是部落首领的埋葬之地,或者就是某个迷失的游牧开拓者的一座里
程碑。一个世纪之前,在这个滨海地区的沿岸,提基亚土库曼人用泥土建立起
43 个堡垒,他们在周围放牧骆驼和凶悍的阿葛马克马,并耕种土地。如今,卡
拉库姆运河自阿姆河顺流而下,穿过那些以―死角‖和―天谴‖等古老、绝望的名字
来命名的村子,灌溉着那些种有小麦与棉花的集体农场。
3. The train was like a town on the move. In its cubicles the close-tiered bunks
were stacked with Russian factory workers and gangs of gossiping Turcomans. Grimy
windows soured the world outside with their own fog, and a stench of urine rose from
the washrooms. But a boisterous freedom was in the air. Everyone was in passage,
lightly uprooted. They gobbled salads and tore at scraggy chicken, played cards
raucously together and p
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