基于KES的领带面料风格的评价与分析.pdfVIP

测试与分析 2012年纪代 织校禾’第4期 一 基于IES的领带面料风格的评价与分析 郑晶晶 (浙江理工大学服装学院，杭州 310018) 摘 要：利用KF．S织物风格仪、YG81I型织物悬垂仪、LLY-01B电子硬挺度测试仪、YG541E全自动激 光织物折皱回复测试仪，对6种领带面料的风格性能进行了测试，并对其4O项指标进行因子分析，得到了影 响面料风格的4个主因子：硬挺度因子、折皱回弹性因子、爽滑度因子和弹性因子。这为领带面料的开发应用 提供选择依据。通过对6种领带面料进行测试发现：防水涤丝领带、三防处理的涤丝领带面料和细旦领带面 料保持了涤纶面料各项优良性能，同时又改善了柔软性、弹性和保形性，使其手感硬挺、有身骨，可以作为男士 优良领带面料进行开发。 关键词：领带面料；KES风格仪；基本风格；因子分析 中图分类号：TS941．723；TS101．923 文献标识码：A 文章编号：1009--265X(2012)04--0033--05 Evaluation and Analysis of the Fabric Style of K E：s-based Necktie ZHENG Jingjing (School of Fashion design and Engineering，Zhejiang Sci—Tech University，Hangzhou 310018，China) Abstract：This paper tests the style performance of six kinds of necktie fabrics with KES fabric style instrument，YG81 1 fabric drape instrument，LLY-OIB electronic stiffness tester and YG541E automatic laser fabric crease recovery tester，makes a factorial analysis of 4O indicators and finally obtains four synthesis factors influencing the style of the fabric： hardness，crease recovery，smooth degree and elasticity，which provides the reasons for the development and application of the necktie fabric． The results show that the fabrics of waterproof polyester tie，three anti-handled polyester tie and fine denier tie can keep the excellent performance of polyester fabric and improve the softness，flexibility and shape retention as well to make it feel stiff，SO it can be regarded as the good fabric to develop men’s necktie． Key words：necktie fabrics；KES fabric style tester；basic style；factorial analysis 软件，探讨了各领带面料的力学性能及其手感风格 特性，为领带面料的选择开发提供一定的参考依据。