成衣女裤之裤裆版型研究-第八届全国纺织技术论文竞赛.PDFVIP

成衣女褲之褲襠版型研究 A crotch pattern study of apparel women pants 1 1 1 2 許雪茹 (35%) 、黃艷雲* (30%) 、呂紫瑞 (35%) 、蘇姝妃 H.J. Hsu1 、Y.Y. Huang*1 、Z.R. Lu1 、C.F. Su2 台南應用科技大學服飾設計管理系1 東豐纖維企業股份有限公司2 Department of Fashion Design and Management, Tainan University of Technology, Tainan, Taiwan,ROC 1 Tuntex Incorporation ,Taipei, Taiwan,ROC2 摘 要 成衣生產與量身訂製服之成本相較之下，更加便宜且快速省時，成衣生產以 機械大量生產，成本相對較低，女性可從外形、美觀以及舒適程度來挑選褲子， 穿著褲子時不僅能方便活動、感到舒適，又能展現身材。本研究針對女性水洗彈 性褲之褲襠版型進行實驗，主要分析褲子版型內外柱是否有走路腿的現象，並發 放問卷調查樣褲水洗前後外觀的接受度，研究結果發現:人體在穿著後襠傾斜量 7.5cm 之樣褲時，不論水洗前或水洗後的外觀接受度皆為最高，穿著於人體時效 果最佳。在樣褲穿著效果方面，穿著樣褲呈蹲姿時，水洗前的後襠傾斜量3.5cm 之樣褲效果最為舒適；水洗後穿著效果最佳的是後襠傾斜量為7.5cm 之樣褲。 關鍵字：成衣、褲子、褲襠、水洗 Abstract In comparison of the cost between apparel and hand-made clothing production, apparel production is cheaper and fast time-saving owing to mass production. Female customers tend to purchase pants from the views of appearance and comfort so that they may feel comfort and show their body shapes during various activities. The crotch pattern of water washable female elastic pants have been investigated in this study. The pant pattern was analyzed to find if there is the phenomenon of walking legs and a survey was performed with questionnaires regarding the appearance acceptance of pants before and after washing. Experimental and survey results indicate that the best appearance acceptance before or after washing occurs when fema