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Unsentimental and gruff, his accent betraying his hometown in China’s far northeast, Mr. Zhao has been plying his trade for more than 30 years. 他说话带着明显的东北口音,粗糙且不加修饰,从事磨刀这个行当已经超过30年了。 “When you’re good at sharpening knives, you get to know everyone,” he said. 他说:“刀磨得好,你就可以认识每一个人。” How good is he? Customers sometimes foolishly test his handiwork by touching the sharpened edge. “I’ve had ladies draw blood and swear they didn’t feel a thing,” he said. As he spoke, there was a loud crash behind him, followed by a choking plume of dust. Workers in orange vests were tearing signs off nearby buildings, part of a government campaign to make the neighborhood more attractive to tourists who like a bit less visual chaos in their Old Beijing experience. “I don’t recognize some of the streets around here anymore,” he said before fleeing the advance of the demolition crew. 他磨刀到底有多好?他透露说,有时街坊傻乎乎地用手去试试刚磨好的刀,有的主妇的手已经被划破流血了,但还是没有任何感觉。就在这位师傅说话的当口,身后传来倒塌的响声,随即扬起令人窒息的烟尘。穿着橙色背心的工人们正在撕下建筑物附近的标志,这是政府城建计划的一部分,这些改变是为了使老北京能吸引更多的游客,并让他们眼中的老北京少一些杂乱。他看了看那些正在拆迁的人,说:“这里的有些街道,我已经认不出来了。” One man who needs no vocal announcement is Li Hailun, a grasshopper salesman whose wares, hundreds of wingless insects imprisoned in round, woven enclosures, produce a deafening, high-pitched symphony. From July to October, Mr. Li, 28, bikes around the city with his chirping quarry, each of which sells for 50 cents to a dollar, depending on the quality of the song and the gullibility of the buyer. Add a dollar if the critter comes in a graceful wooden cage. 另一位叫李海伦(Li Hailun)的卖蝈蝈儿的小贩从不需要吆喝,因为他的货物——数百只装在圆形的编织笼子里的无翼昆虫,能合奏出震耳欲聋的高音交响乐。从7月到10月,28岁的小李就带着他唧唧作响的猎物,骑着自行车在这个城市里转悠。根据叫声的质量和买主是否懂行,每件蝈蝈儿可卖到50美分至1美元不等。如果这些小昆虫装在一个好看的木制笼子里,还要再加收一美元。 Much of Mr. Li’s village, about a two-hour drive from the capital, is engaged in the grasshopper trade: women weave the cages, boys catch the insects and the men pedal them to nostalgic city dwellers. The bugs draw a crowd w
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