服装学概论3MaterialofFashio.pptVIP

Chapter 2 Evolution of Fashion 2.1 古埃及、巴比伦及亚述服装Ancient egypt, babylonian and assyrian style Ancient greece style (古希腊服装风格) ??? 古罗马服装风格Ancient rome style Toga was much larger, heavier and complicated. It was a semicircle in shape. 拜占庭服装风格byzantine style Gothic style 哥特风格 Long Slender designs with an emphasis on the waist and bright color Man’s clothing lost its similarity to women’s clothing 文艺复兴风格 renaissance style 1800-1825 Bonaparte(波拿巴)s Influence on Fashion 1804 The Fabrics for Empire Line Dresses The fabric for Empire dresses was usually fine white lawn(细麻布), muslin (平纹细布)or batiste(毛织物). Although muslins were less costly than silks, good white work lawn fabrics still cost money. Napoleon Bonaparte crowned Emperor in 1804 was keen(喜欢) to make France a leader of fashion and innovator(革新) of design and craft(工艺) skills. During the French Revolution the French textile industry had suffered and unlike in England, use of textile machinery had been non existent. Emperor Napoleon stopped the import of English textiles and he revived the Valenciennes lace industry so that fine fabrics like tulle(纱) and batiste(上等亚麻) could be made there. 1790 The Empire Style 1800 The high waisted graceful styles of early 19th century are known as the Empire style. The Empire dress which evolved in the late 1700s began as a chemise(女式无袖衬衫) shift gathered under the breasts and at the neck.? Named after The First Empire, by 1800 it had a very low square neckline, a short narrow backed bodice(紧身围腰) and separate skirt. The small neat puff sleeves barely capped the shoulder. The gown shown is of woven cotton with fringe trimming Regency dress in the period 1800-1820 Underwear * * Schenti or Lion cloth Embroidered sheath gown Candys with fringe Pleated kalasiris (褶裥”卡拉西利丝) Gathered cape (碎褶披肩) Lonic chition Doric woolen chiton Corset and fitted dress The flaring skirt was fitted at the hips, ankle-length and hand several rows of ruffles.