双面花纹提花织物结构设计原理和方法-Core.PDF

34 1 () Vol.34, No.1 2008 2 JO URNA L OF DONGHUA UN IV ERSITY (NA TURA L SCIENCE) Feb.2008 　　:1671-0444 (2008)01-0044-04 ＊ 1, 2 2 周　赳 , 吴文正 (1. , 310018; 2., ) 　:数码设计技术的应用, 为传统双面花纹效果提花织物的设计创新提供了条件, 其创新的实质在 改变传统 的提花织物的结构设计理念.通过分析数码设计技术的应用特点, 对双面花纹提花织物的结构设计原理进行深入探 讨, 并提出一种便捷的设计方法.其结构设计的基本原理是先设计织物的正反面结构图, 再利用分层组合的方法将正 反面的织物结构图进行组合, 通过规则的接结组织使双面效果的织物结构合为一个整体, 并满足表组织对里组织具有 遮盖效应.由 该结构设计方法满足全息组织和组织库的应用, 对用 织物正反面效果设计的图案题材没有限制, 设 计产品在结构上具有平衡交织的特点, 可以用 大批量生产, 具有良好的应用前景. :数码;双面花纹;提花织物;接结组织;结构设计 :TS 941.26;TS 10 .1　　　　:A Principle and Met hod of St ructure Design for Figured Double-face Jacquard Fabric Z H OU J iu 1, 2 , N G Frank ie2 (1.Key Laboratory of Advanced Textile Materialsand ManufacturingTechnology of MOE, Zhejiang Science and Technology University, angzhou Zhejiang310018, China;2.Institute of Textiles and Clothing, The ongKong Polytechnic University, ongKong, China) Abstract:The application of digital design technology has provided the condition for design innovation of traditional figured double-face jacquard fabric, in w hich the innovative essential is that changing the traditional design concept of fabric structure.The design principle of figured double-face jacquard fabric was investigated deeply based on analysis of feature of application digital design technology;and then, an efficient structural design method is presented.The design theory is that, by using regular stitch w eaves, figured double-face jacquard fabric will be taken shape upon combination of face and back structure being designed respectivel