纽约范儿之边走边吃.docVIP

纽约范儿之边走边吃 　　边走边吃听起来多少有些不雅，是对自身需求的潦草应付，似乎还有几分对美食的不尊重。然而在纽约，人们对边走边吃却司空见惯，甚至颇为鼓励与喜爱。不是纽约人只求效率、不懂生活，相反，这是纽约餐饮传统的延续与回归，是对城市自由与效率的完美礼赞。边吃边走边欣赏沿途的风景，谁又能说这不是一件惬意的事儿呢？ 　　It started with a hot dog and a pair of rollerblades1）. At thirteen years old my version of being a reckless adolescent involved skidding down Broadway on a Saturday afternoon with my best friend， dodging2） pedestrians while munching3） on a Gray’s Papaya hot dog. 　　The rollerblades have long since been abandoned―as has my taste for Gray’s Papaya， along with other mystery meats―but what remains is my love of eating and walking at the same time. Like many favored pastimes， it is difficult to pinpoint its exact appeal. All I know is that it brings together two of my favorite diversions4）： food and mindless urban wandering. This is not an activity to be undertaken in just any city. It requires a place where you can order any meal to-go， a place where food is shoved into mouths absolutely anywhere and at any time， a place where public eating knows no bounds. On the crowded streets， eating while walking becomes a kind of sidewalk ballet. And no city is more conducive to this dance than New York， where eat-walking is not only normal， but encouraged. And I am a high achiever. 　　I have always felt that walking while eating is one of the highest forms of respect you can pay to a food and to a city， and to my city in particular. Tuck5） into that tub of chicken wings with hot sauce， bite into that impossibly juicy burger， devour that fully-loaded pizza as you walk down the street like it’s your last meal―nobody cares. Some call this bad manners. I call this freedom. But historically， it was not always a matter of choice. 　　In the suffocating6） tenements7） that were home to New York’s immigrants for much of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries， multiple families were crammed into a single apartment and dozens would share one kitchen. In such close quarters there was effectively8） no room to eat. Meals were far