衬衫缝份抗皱防缩技术研究 a technical study on wrinkle-resistance and shrink-proof of shirt seams.pdfVIP

衬衫缝份抗皱防缩技术研究 丁锡强 (上海商学院。上海200235) 摘要：缝份的抗皱防缩一直是提高衬衫外观平挺质量的一个技术难题。特别是选用全棉或羊毛等纯天然纤维含量较高的 面料，缝制成型后的衬衫在袖窿与摆缝等处，其缝份起皱回缩现象更为严重。热熔胶网膜双面黏衬是克服袖窿与摆 缝等处缝份起皱难题的首选材料；选用包芯缝纫线也可以减少缝线与面料缝份的缩率差异，辅助勰决缝份部位起皱 问题。由于缝制过程中需要将热熔胶网膜双面黏衬嵌置在易起皱收缩缝份中一起缝合，所以对缝纫机及工夹具有一 定要求，然后再经专用定形压烫机熨烫，最终使衬衫各主要部位的缝份达到抗皱防缩要求。 关键词：衬衫；缝份；抗皱防缩；热熔胶网膜双面黏衬；定形压烫机 文献标识码：A 中图分类号：TS941．713．1；TS941．63 AtechnicalOnwrinkle—-resistanceand ofshirtseams study shrink--proof DING Xi．．qiang Business (Shangh丑i School，Shanghai200235，China) itIe atechnical shirt and and ofshirtseams affecting quality． Abstract：WHnl【le—resistanceshrink—proof always dit五culty appearance hemscrims If cottonor woolmaterialisused．tllewrinkleandshrink showsmoreseriousinskirts]eevesealnsand10wer pure pure problem fdm esIneinto hasbecomethefirstchoiceforthesolutionof whentheshirtis made．Asheatmelt netdoublealready being．it being plastic and hem8esm8．Witllthe呲ofcable—like differencebetweenthethread wrinldeand8hrinkinshirtsleevesandlower thread。theshrinkage the melt netdoublefilmhastobesewed seamcartbe can thesolutionofwrinklein heat reduced．which plastic help