国民政府时期官办与民办军服业分析.docVIP

国民政府时期官办与民办军服业分析 张竞琼 胡彦青 江南大学纺织服装学院 X 关注成功！ 加关注后您将方便地在 我的关注中得到本文献的被引频次变化的通知！ 新浪微博 腾讯微博 人人网 开心网 豆瓣网 网易微博 摘????要： 目前针对中国近代服装史的研究成果颇为丰富, 但主要集中于研究服装形制与纹样, 对于服装产业的研究相对缺乏, 尤其是对近代中国军服业的研究更是少之又少。而军服业也是近代服装产业的重要组成部分, 也有其独特的行业特征与运行规律。文章以官办和商办军服业为研究对象, 基于《北洋官报》《政府公报》《交通公报》《军需杂志》《行政院公报》等一手史料, 对国民政府时期官办与民营军服业的规模、区域分布、经营状况与人员组织结构进行了分析。将经济学中市场组织结构的分析方法运用在分析军服业之中, 用数据与图例更加直观地说明军服业的市场特征。在分析官办军服厂时, 结合当时的历史背景与战争环境, 将军服厂的迁徙与战争形势紧密联系起来, 得出了近代军服业从无到有、从官督商办、官商合办到官商并举, 并逐步规范法制的结论。 关键词： 官办军服业; 商办军服业; 源起; 特征; 分析; 作者简介：张竞琼 (1965) , 男, 教授, 硕导, 主要从事服饰文化的研究。 收稿日期：2017-03-03 The study on military uniform industry in the period of national government ZHANG Jingqiong HU Yanqing College of Textile and Garment, Jiangnan University; Abstract： Nowadays, the research results on Chinese modern garment are rich, but mainly focus on clothing shape and pattern. There is relative lack of researches on garment industry, and especially researches on military uniforms industry in modern China. Military uniform industry is also an important part of modern garment industry and it has its own unique characteristics and operation rules. In this paper, the state-run and privately-operated military uniform industries were chosen as the object of study, and the scale, regional distribution, management and staff structure of state-run and privately-operated military uniform industries in the period of national government on the basis of firsthand historical data such as Beiyang Official Newspaper, Government Gazette, Traffic Bulletin, Military Supplies Magazine, and the Executive Yuan Gazette The analysis method of market organization structure in economics was used in the analysis, and data and the legend were adopted for more intuitive description of the uniform market characteristics. When government-run military plant was analyzed, the historical context and war environment were combined to closely connect military plant migration with the war. Such conclusion is drawn that, the development of moder