冰窖、冰船与冰鲜（明清）.pdfVIP

Journal of Chinese Dietary Culture 1 （2 ）：31-95, 2005 Copyright© Foundation of Chinese Dietary Culture. ISSN: 1811-9301 冰窖、冰船與冰鮮： 明代以降江浙的冰鮮漁業與 海鮮消費 邱仲麟 中央研究院歷史語言研究所 E-mail: cjlccy@ 摘 要 本文所要考察的是：明代以來江蘇、浙江沿海冷凍漁業的發展 及其相關的問題。討論的重點有三，其一為明代以來江浙藏冰與海 洋漁業的聯結，其二為冷凍漁業的內部分化；其三為冷凍漁業的擴 展與士庶日常飲食的關連。有關於第一部份，考察了明代以來蘇州、 上海、乍浦、杭州、寧波、鎮海、舟山等地窖冰的情況及其與冷凍 漁業的關係。第二部份則討論兩種新出現的行業，即肇始於嘉靖年 間（十六世紀中葉），專事在海上收買漁船所撈海產的販鮮船；及 約在乾隆年間（十八世紀）萌生，仲介販鮮船與漁販之間冰鮮買賣 的鮮魚行。第三部份則述及冷凍漁業產銷擴張之下，民眾海鮮消費 日增的情況。 關鍵詞：明清、藏冰、冷凍漁業、海產、漁業史、飲食史 32 邱仲麟 Ice Houses, Frozen Ships and Fresh Seafood ：The Frozen Fishery and Seafood Consumption in Jiangsu-Zhejiang China, 1368-1930s CHIU Chung-lin Institute of History and Philology, Academia Sinica E-mail: cjlccy@ Abstract This article intends to trace the development and related problems of coastal frozen fishery since the Ming dynasty in the Jiangsu-Zhejiang area. There are three focuses in this article: First, the connection between sea fishery and ice-houses since the Ming dynasty; second, the inside disunion of frozen fishery; finally, the relation between the expansion of frozen fishery and the transformation of daily diet among the people. The first focus investigates the condition of stock ice in Suzhou, Shanghai, Zhapu, Hangzhou, Ningbo, Zhenhai and Zhoushan, and its relation with the frozen fishery. The second focus discusses the emergence of the merchantmen specialized in buying frozen seafood from the fishing boats since 1550s, and the brokerage business of fr