珠宝的时间表.docVIP

Jewelry Timeline Social Technology Influences Findings Motifs Materials 400BC- 400AD Glass used as gem substitute Diamonds not cut, “point cut” were polished crystals 1200 Sumptuary Laws in Medieval Europe England capped luxury in dress and jewelry. Townspeople in France elsewhere not allowed to wear girdles or coronals made of pearls, gemstones, gold or silver. The fact that these laws forbade yeomen and artisans from wearing gold and silver indicates how the status of jewelry and sumptuous dress had become widespread beyond just the nobility. 1300-1600 1300 imitation pearls produced with white powdered glass mixed with albumen (egg white) and snail slime Cabochon crudely made soft glass ‘pastes’. Table cut introduced for diamonds: top bottom points cut off, flat top facet is the ‘table’ 1550 Table-cut ‘paste’ Pastes set in gilt as fake gems Mazarin cut diamonds (34 facets, blocky) 1600’s Earrings worn day and night, fake pearl and paste acceptable, fine diamond jewelry kept for evening Shepard hook earwire, long backs Beads, pearls strung on ribbon or cord tied in back Enamel on “everything” Ornate pendant bails Rose cut diamond cut (flat bottoms, faceted tops) Sancy cut pear shaped rose faceted diamonds 1630 Jaquin of Paris patents a method of making fake pearls, wax-filled glass balls coated with fish scale varnish Pearls and fake pearls profuse, covered dresses, etc. Paste jewelry was usual in the 1670s and was worn at court. 1730 Most fake jewelry made in Paris, all kinds of fake gems made, including fake opals. Hinged loop earwire (back entry) hand made “French” earwire Fibula catch Diamonds white stones until 1750. Soft glass ‘paste’, rock crystal, marcasite, and cut steel accepted for ‘diamond’ look (all classes) Peruzzi cut diamonds, c. 1700. 56 facet cushion cut brilliant 1734 In France Georges Strass patents best, longest-lasting formula for “true” paste, a compound of glass, white lead oxide and potash