纺织(羊毛—蚕丝).ppt

Basic knowledge for Textile 纺织基础知识 Introduction 介绍 Silk amount in China world 蚕丝产量分布 Varieties 品种 4 Characteristics 特点 5 Silkworm Growth Cocoon 蚕的发育与蚕茧的形成 6 Silk manufacturing 蚕茧的工艺加工 7 Silk wear property 蚕丝的服用性能 1 Introduction 介绍 Silk is a natural protein fiber. fine, horny, translucent, yellowish fiber produced by the silkworm in making its cocoon and covered with sericin, a protein. 蚕丝是一种天然蛋白质纤维，纤细，透明，截面呈不规则三角形，色泽微黄，是蚕的腺分泌物吐出后凝固形成线状长线，外层包覆丝胶。 2 Silk amount in China world  蚕丝产量分布 Domestic: zhujiang Taihu Chengdu 国内分布： 珠江 太湖 成都 2 Silk amount in China world  蚕丝产量分布 International: China India Uzbekistan Brazil 世界分布： 中国 印度 乌兹别克斯坦 巴西 1)、Home silk: Mulberry silk 家蚕丝：桑蚕丝； 2)、Wide silk: Tussah silk, Castor-oil plant silk, cassava silk 野蚕丝：柞蚕丝 、蓖麻蚕丝、木薯蚕丝等。 The shimmering appearance for which silk is prized comes from the fibers triangular prism-like structure, which allows silk cloth to refract incoming light at different angles. 桑蚕丝纵向平直光滑，截面呈不规则的三角形，使丝织物折射外观色泽。 Tussah silk is coarser, flatter, yellower filament than the Mulberry silk. 柞蚕丝纵向表面粗燥，扁平，色泽比桑蚕丝黄。 1）Growth: egg → Larva → Pupa → moth 蚕的发育： 经过卵、幼虫、蛹和成虫（蛾）四个阶段 2）茧的形成 Cocoon 茧衣（外层）：蚕吐丝时，最初吐出的凌乱的丝缕，成为茧的蓬松外廓。（丝缕细，强度差，丝胶含量多，绢纺原料） 茧层（中层）：茧衣里面，丝缕绕成丝圈，结构紧密，排列规则，是丝的主体。（丝较粗，强力好） ?蛹（内层）：? 吐丝将近终了时叠合成的疏松层。（丝最细，发脆，丝胶含量少，绢纺原料）? 1) In silk manufacture, the first operation is reeling. The cocoons, having been sorted for color and texture, are steamed or placed in warm water to soften the natural gum. each cocoon may give from 610–915 m of filament, This is called raw silk. ? 第一步是缫丝。蚕茧按色泽、质地分类挑选，利用热水使茧丝上的丝胶适当膨润和部分溶解，从而使茧丝分离下来形成生丝。每个茧可生成610-915m长丝。 6 Silk manufacturing  蚕茧的工艺加工 2) The next step, called throwing, is preparing the raw silk for the loom by twi