日本金泽:被时光遗忘的城市.docVIP

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日本金泽:被时光遗忘的城市   The first thing I noticed as I stepped off the train in Kanazawa was the hypermodernity of its railway station, which is covered by a glittering glass dome. The second thing I noticed was the utter absence of foreign visitors. This was a contrast from the few days I had just spent in Kyoto, which is one of my favorite Japanese cities but this time seemed to be overrun with Western tourists in rented 1)kimonos mugging for the smartphones on the ends of their selfie-sticks.   Kanazawa, for the moment, anyway, is a refreshingly low-key affair. This 16th-century castle town of some 460,000 on Japan’s west coast has remained blissfully off the radar of most overseas travelers, but has long been a favorite getaway for the Japanese.   Designated a 2)UNESCO City of Crafts and Folk Art, Kanazawa has serious artistic credibility and is a center for artisans who produce 3)lacquer ware, textiles and other crafts using traditional techniques. None of these is more identified with Kanazawa than gold leaf. True to the city’s name, which means golden marsh, Kanazawa produces virtually all the gold leaf made in Japan, where they like to cover everything from monuments to food with the stuff.   At Hakuza Honten, a local store that specializes in all things gilded, I watched customers shop for 4)varnished jewelry cases and bowls that cost many thousands of dollars, or souvenirs that they traditionally bring home for friends and co-workers. These shiny goodies glittered plenty, but what really caught my eye was the replica of a 16th-century 5)shogun’s traveling tearoom that was covered in so much gold leaf it literally glowed behind its protective glass wall.   Even more captivating than the gold-covered finery was one of the store’s craftsmen, 66-year-old Shigeyo Aoshima, whom I watched hammer sheets of gold pressed between 6)parchment into gold leaf. When he was finished, the gold leaf was a thousand times thinner than an average piece of paper and dissolved

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